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P4P University :: Twin Needle Tips

March 16, 2017

Hello Pirates! Today I’ll be walking through some tips on using a twin needle for topstitching as an alternative to a coverstitch machine. The end goal (of either twin needles or a coverstitch) is two lines of parallel stitching on the right side of the fabric, with the ability to stretch and not break threads when pulled. This is usually used when hemming, but these tricks will especially come in handy when topstitching binding on our new cami pattern!

1. Stretch Needles

The most important point is to make sure you buy stretch needles. Schmetz is the most common brand that people tend to use, they are available on Amazon. I prefer the wider 4.0 width the best because it works better for me; it also comes in a 2.5 width. These are both 75/11 needle size.

2. Threading

When threading, it helps to thread as shown in the below picture. This helps stop the threads from twisting when sewing. Also, make sure your threads are not caught on anything (or each other) at the top of your machine.

5. Stitch Type

Use a regular straight stitch for this; no need to use a triple stretch stitch (|||) or any other stretch stitch like that.

4. Tension

Tunneling is what happens when there is a large bump in between your two rows of stitching. To avoid this, I’ve found it helps to increase your top thread tension. Your machine may vary, but I usually set my tension to 3. If possible, you should also decrease your bobbin tension as well.

5. Stitch Length

Increasing stitching length usually also helps with tunneling, especially on trickier, slipperier fabrics. Your machine may also vary on this too, but I set mine between 3.0 – 4.0, depending on fabric. The lower number will help things stretch more though, so you may need to find a happy medium.

6. Go Slowly!

This is a huge one. It’s so tempting to go full steam ahead, especially if you using a twin needle to hem. You’re almost done with your project, but don’t ruin it with a sloppy hemming job! Going slowly can make all the difference between a wavy hem and a perfectly flat one. If you encounter any thicker areas of fabric, it may also be a good idea to use the hand crank on your machine, turning it slowly to ensure no mistakes as you pass over the thicker area.

7. Don’t Stretch as You Sew

This applies to all knit fabric projects, but especially when using a twin needle. Don’t pull or stretch the fabric as you feed it into the needle area. I’ve found that even creating a little extra negative tension as you guide the fabric can help to avoid any pulling as you sew.

8. Top vs. Bottom

When everything is done correctly, you should have two parallel lines on the top of your fabric, and a perfect zigzag on the back. The zigzag is what allows your fabric to stretch after it’s sewn, so if you have super tight or non-existent zigzags, then you likely need to adjust (likely increase – confusing, I know) your top thread tension. Here’s how it should look, the underside of the fabric is at the top of the picture and the right side is on the bottom. Note the zigzags!

I hope these tips help you as you prepare to topstitch lots of fun binding or finish up a fancy new garment with a twin needle hem! Let us know in our Facebook group or here in the comments if you have any questions about twin needles!

Elisabeth

Cross My Heart Cami Hacks

March 14, 2017

So you love the X option but you also love the T option of the Cross My Heart Cami and now you’re in a pickle…which one do I make? The answer is obvious, you make both! And if you’re anything like I am, you make both style in one cami! 🙂

The beauty of the CMHC pattern is that you don’t even need to make any modifications to achieve this look. Simply cut two pieces of the front pattern and follow the directions for adding the T and the X details to the pieces. Finish the cami as per the tutorial and voila! You made yourself a brand new cami that can be worn both way. You can wear the X in the front and the T in the back like I did or you can wear the T in the front.

I paired this cami with a Pirate Pencil Skirt and a Sweet Tee with curved hem and an off the shoulder mod. Which styles will you be making first?

Judy made this one with two backs! Such a simple mode that can add so many more options to this pattern!

The V front and low x makes a sizzler! I mean, who doesn’t love to have that piece of clothing that you can pull out, slip on feel a little sexy every once in a while?

Are you looking for a more delicate, feminine feel? Grab some stretch lace for an easy hack!

Here’s a simple how-to:

1. Cut the lace the same length as your binding pieces, for whichever neckline you are using.

2. After you’ve attached and folded over the binding as directed in the tutorial, pin the right side of the lace to the wrong side of the neckline/binding. In the picture below, the fabric is right side up.

3. Repeat for the back as well, if you’d like. Then, sew it on as you top-stitch the binding, per the pattern tutorial. Here’s how it should look all said and done; wrong side up shown on the bottom of the picture, right side up shown at the top.

4. Be sure to catch the edge of the lace on the side of the shoulder binding as you attach it.

5. Finish the shirt as the pattern tutorial directs. That’s it – easy peasy!

~ Elisabeth

Not sure what to do with all those pretty lace appliques? Attach one to the front or back of the cami. I happened to up-cycle one from an old shirt that didn’t fit anymore and have some knit on hand that matched perfectly! I used to V back because of the shape of the applique. I left the front neckline raw and stitched the lace just overlapping the top edge using a zigzag stitch. (Knit does not unravel so no need to finish those edges). Attach to the right side of the cami prior to doing the shoulder binding if your applique extends to the armholes. For the main body of the applique, I chose to tack down in a few areas (center of the flowers) as the applique itself was pretty open throughout. Easy Peasy!

all p4p today

March 1, 2017

One of our biggest joys is seeing you wear P4P outfits and feeling beautiful! From Slim Fit Raglans to SOS pants, from Timeless Tunics to Free Spirit tanks, we love them all!

Are you wearing head to to P4P today? Will you be rocking a full Patterns for Pirates outfit tomorrow? Post a picture in the Facebook group or on Instagram of your outfit and hash tag it #allP4Ptoday. We will pick our favorite each month. In order to qualify for the contest, the photo must be taken when you’re wearing the outfit, whether it’s at home or out and about. Selfies in the mirror in your sewing room will not count. We want to see you wearing what you’re sewing and love it!😊 The lucky winner will be receiving a P4P pattern of their choice! Sounds fun?

Just in case you need some inspiration here is some of our “all P4P” looks that we rocked this past year.

Pumpkin Spice Dolman and SOS Pants

Sweetheart peplum and pirate Pencil skirt

Boundless maxi dress and Men’s Henley

Essential Tank, Cocoon Cardigan and SOS Pants

Timeless Tunic and pirate Pencil Skirt

Slim Fit Raglan and SOS pants (adjusted for shorts)

Sunshine dress

Mama Bear Joggers and Women’s Henley with faux layers

Essential Tank – dress length

Free Spirit Tank dress with the LMU sleeves hack and the free scarf (available on the blog)

Relaxed Raglan and Peg legs

Sweet Tee dress and Cocoon Cardigan

So get to sewing and show off your outfits, pirates! Don’t forget to hashtag #allP4Ptoday !

Alex

P4P Cardi Week is here!

January 22, 2017

We had so much fun when we ran #P4PRaglanWeek that we decided to do it again. But this time, we are focusing on our favorite layering pieces: Cardigans! That’s right, Pirates! We are asking you to dig out your Grandpa/Cpt Mack, Carefree, and Cocoon/Butterfly Cardigan patterns…and the Kimono pattern too! Let’s get busy sewing!

We are giving you a full week of cardigan sewing, with hacks and add-ons and easy tutorials. This is going to be so much fun!

Take a look at our jam-packed schedule of cardigan love!

Saturday, January 21: #P4PCardiWeek Announcement

Sunday, January 22: Cocoon / Butterfly Ruffle + Lace Hems

Monday, January 23: Ribbon Tie Closure Hack

Tuesday, January 24: Carefree Cardigan Fringe Hack

Wednesday, January 25: Duster-Length Adjustment

Thursday, January 26: Kimono Ruffle Sleeves

Friday, January 27: Varsity Sweater Style Hack

Saturday, January 28: Carefree Cardigan Flannel + Vest Hack

Monday, January 30: #P4PCardiWeek Winner Announcement

You can follow along on the blog here, or in our Facebook group. Search #P4PCardiWeek to be able to find our posts all over social media. And please feel free to sew-along with us on one or all of the days. The more the merrier!

To sweeten the deal, we’ve gone through and updated the older patterns to include the layers feature, as well as the international and copy shop files. How do you get the updated copies from previous purchases? That’s easy!

If you purchased from PatternsforPirates.com or Craftsy, log into your accounts and download the updated file. It’s already in there, waiting for you!
If you purchased from Etsy, email a copy of your receipt to help@patternsforpirates.com and the Pirate crew will email you with your updated files.

But wait, there’s more! We wanted to create a friendly pirate-y competition with our P4P Cardi Week!

Between tomorrow and Saturday, January 28, sew up a Patterns for Pirates cardigan using one of our hacks, or by keeping the pattern as-is. Share your photo with us on Instagram or in our Facebook group and use the tag#P4PCardiWeek We will pick our favorite and the winner will win a free P4P pattern of choice AND be featured on this blog. Fun right?

To make it even better we have put all the cardigan patterns in the shop on sale all week (no code needed)!

Grandpa Cardigan | Cpt. Mack Cardigan | Carefree Cardigan | Cocoon Cardigan
Butterfly Cardigan | Summer Kimono

Now get out there and sew some cardigans, matey!

Butterfly Cardigan :: New Pattern Release!

January 17, 2017

We are celebrating another pattern release day and you’re going to love it! Remember the Cocoon Cardigan that we put out right before the holidays? It’s in mini size now! Meet the Butterfly Cardigan!

The pattern is drafted for girls sizes 3M – 14. It’s a dolman style sleeve, so it’s got a looser fit and is quick to put together, just like other dolman style tops. There are THREE sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long — each with multiple band options), TWO hem lengths (cropped or tunic length), TWO neckband options (short or tall), and optional pockets (patch or inseam)! On top of all of that, we have also included a PDF layers feature for printing.

The three different sleeve length options will take your littles from one season to the next. Choose between short sleeve, 3/4 length, and long sleeves and your littles can easily transition between all four seasons.

With two different hem lengths, you’ve got all of your bases covered. Get more coverage with a longer-length tunic…

…or make it in a short and sweet cropped length!

Don’t worry, we made sure to include pockets (!!!) in the Butterfly Cardigan! Who doesn’t love pockets?

Not quite convinced yet? Go check out all of the rest of the adorable tester images in our Facebook group HERE and get inspired!

Can’t take it any longer and need the pattern right now?! Go grab your very own copy of the Butterfly Cardigan and get to sewing! Don’t have the Mama version of the Cocoon Cardigan yet?

Go grab a special bundle pricing for the Butterfly + Cocoon Cardigans HERE. Butterfly and bundle will be on sale (no code needed) through Monday January 23,2017.

And don’t forget to share your gorgeous makes with us over in the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group!

2016 Holiday Freebies: Fleece Mittens Pattern!

December 8, 2016

The Pirate Crew is here to bring a little more “yo ho ho” into your holiday with some freebies! Today is the first of three patterns we are releasing, for FREE! In case you were stumped on Christmas sewing ideas, here is the first of our scrap-busting, super quick, free patterns.

These mittens are a one-size fits most. We’ve also provided a cuff and a non-cuff version, so you can mix other fabrics into these easily if you’d like. The pattern is written for a basic fleece fabric, though some of our testers have had success with sweater knits and other various fabrics.

Grab your free pattern pieces here. If you need help putting the pattern together, pop over to the First Time Users Tips page or ask in our facebook group .

Note: I use my sewing machine for the construction of the mitten body, because the thumb area can be really tricky if you’re using a serger. When using fleece, it helps to use a walking foot in your machine to help reduce pulling. It also makes feeding the fleece through your machine a more even process.

Recommended fabrics: Fleece, cuddle/minky, sweatshirt fleece, upcycled sweaters, etc. I suggest washing your fabric before you begin to pre-shrink & help prevent color bleeding in the future.
(Optional cuff) Any knits with at least a 20% stretch.

Supplies needed:

1/3 yard Fleece fabric
(optional cuff) less than 1/4 yard required

Step 1: Assemble your pattern and cut your pieces out. You will need two sets of mirror images of the main body pieces.

Step 2: Lay two mirror images, right sides together. Using 1/2″ seam allowance, sew around the entire outside of the mitten body. Make sure to leave the bottom open.

Step 3: Clip the corner between the thumb and fingers, making sure not to cut into your stitching, but getting as close as you can to it. This step is super important, otherwise the mitten will fit really strange in the thumb and it’ll be super uncomfortable.

Step 4: [If doing the cuff version, skip to step 6] Turn the opening up 1″ and hem. (Optional: turn 1/2″ and then another 1/2″ to enclose raw edge.)

Step 5: Turn mitten right-side-out. Repeat with second mitten.

Step 6: CUFF VERSION ONLY Complete steps 1-3. Also cut 2 cuff pieces, one for each mitten.

Step 7: Fold your cuff piece, right sides together, meeting the shorter ends together.

Step 8: Stitch (using 1/2″ seam allowance) short ends together.

Step 9: With wrong sides together, fold the raw edges together to meet each other.

Step 10: On both your mitten body and cuff pieces, mark raw edges into halves. (The mitten body will be the two seams. The cuff will be one seam and the halfway point on the opposite side.)

Step 11: Slide the cuff over the mitten body, aligning the raw edges and matching the half-marked points. Note: The cuff is slightly smaller than the mitten body.

Step 12: Stretching the cuff only, stitch through all three layers of raw edges.

Step 13: Flip cuffs down. Repeat with other mitten.

Step 14: Sit back long enough to admire your handiwork, and then go sew a million more pairs of these comfy mittens!

Check out the adorable mittens that our gorgeous testers made! (And check back with us next week, because we’ve got more freebies coming your way!)

As always, we love when you share what you’ve made with us. Head over to the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group and show off the fabulous mittens you’ve managed to make from our freebie pattern!

Cocoon Cardigan :: New Pattern Release!

December 1, 2016

Lately, we seem to tease you a lot with patterns in-the-making. Tease. It’s what we do. The Cocoon Cardigan was a long, drawn out tease, with multiple appearances in our Instagram feed. But guess what? It’s here! The wait is over! No more teasing, we promise.

Oh boy, you are going to LOVE this cardigan. It’s like wearing a hug. A hug that is full of customizable options, that is!

The pattern is drafted for sizes XXS – Plus 3X. It’s a dolman style sleeve, so it’s looser fitted and insanely fast to put together. There are THREE sleeve lengths (short, 3/4 and long — each with multiple band options), TWO hem lengths (cropped or tunic length), TWO neckband options (short or tall), and optional pockets (patch or inseam)! On top of all of that, we have also included a PDF layers feature for printing.

**Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for this pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE.

The three different sleeve length options will take you from one season to the next. Choose between short sleeve, 3/4 length, and long sleeves and transition between all four seasons.

With two different hem lengths, you’ve got all of your bases covered. Get more coverage with a booty-covering tunic…

…or take it a little shorter and a whole lot sassier with a cropped length!

And ladies. Have we talked pockets yets? POCKETS! Doesn’t that make literally every outfit better? We have included both in-seam and patch options. So you can go wild! (As wild as one could go with pockets on a cardigan, haha.)

Were you wondering if the Cocoon Cardigan would work for maternity wear? Yes, yes, a million times yes! It’s perfect, no alterations required!

Not quite convinced yet? Go check out all of the rest of the gorgeous tester images in our Facebook group HERE and get inspired!

Can’t take it any longer and need the pattern right now?! Go grab your very own copy of the Cocoon Cardigan and get to sewing!

P4P Halloween Costume Contest: The Winners!

November 3, 2016

Halloween costume sewing is basically my (Katy) favorite type of sewing. It’s allowed to be over-the-top, silly, and super creative. And I feel like it pushes sewists out of their usual comfort zones. We held a costume contest in a thread on the Patterns for Pirates Facebook group! If you were curious about all of the costumes shared, head HERE to find all of the amazing sews.

I have a hard time choosing just one winner. So I decided to let my husband and son pick their favorites too this time around! Here are our picks!

Louis’ Favorite (in the least surprising choice…from my Pokemon obsessed 6-year old): Jennifer Rowe with her Pikachu, made from the P4P Jolly Roger Raglan + Add-Ons, and the Pirate Playground Pants!

Bennett’s Favorite (another non-surprise from my Star Wars nerdy husband): Jennifer Richardson with her Darth Vader / Rebel Pilot dresses using the Me Hearties Peplum/Dress pattern.

Katy’s Favorite (I couldn’t help but die a little bit over this unicorn. I think the hooves sold me.): Jamie Grey with her Unicorn made from the Sweet Tee and Peg Legs.

Congratulations to the winners! I’ll be contacting you about your winnings!

And thank you so much to everyone who shared their amazing creations. I’ve now got a lot of new ideas for next year’s costume sewing extravaganza!

Timeless Tunic and Tiny Timeless-Pattern Release!!

September 13, 2016

I’m asked for more patterns drafted for non-stretch woven fabrics all the time! And although my heart will always sing for those quick knits 😉 I do love a nice woven top or dress too!

So without further ado, let me introduce the Timeless Tunic and the youth version the Tiny Timeless (because Baby Girl needs to match Mama sometimes)! We also have them bundled together for a discount in the Timeless Bundle! All will be on sale through Sunday 9/18/2016 US Central Time Zone.

I love a softer drape for my own tops. I feel like the drape gives a more flattering silhouette. Personal favorites are rayon challis, crepe, peachskin, poly chiffon and voile. But, I drafted it so that you can get away with using a stiffer woven like a chambray or flannel without loosing too much of the glamour! Now you will have a great, timeless pattern that allows you to use up that gorgeous woven fabric you’ve been hoarding for that “perfect pattern”! (ah ah ahhhhhhhhhh…)

Both include the same options:

Tank– Perfect for warmer weather or for a nice layering piece. I loved to wear a nice silky tank under a cardigan!

Short Sleeve– A bit more coverage, but still great for warmer weather and layering!

3/4 Sleeve– A great transition length that you can wear year round.

Long Sleeve- Take this length into the colder months no problem! A lot of our testers loved the longer sleeve paired with a cozy flannel!

Top/Shirt Length- Cute, comfy, and easy to wear!

Curved Tunic Length- My personal favorite 🙂 It’s flattering and has some coverage but still looks trendy and put together. Younger girls love that curved tunic for pairing with skinnies or leggings!

Dress Length- Meant to hit about 2″ above knee (a super flattering length on all shapes) you can make it casual everyday or sew it up in a nicer fabric and pair with heels to dress it up!

So, just how versatile is this pattern? It can really be styled up or down so many ways you could wear this anywhere!

This is such a classic look you can make it a casual, everyday/play look:

Maybe a casual date, girls meet up, or shopping day:

Use something a bit nicer and you have a great office or work wear attire staple. Send your littles in it for school ceremonies or picture day:

It’s the perfect style for a shower or party! Perfect for those adorable border prints as well!

You can even do a great silky fabric and make a more formal version:

Warning though, doing this dress in a fabulous silky leopard print can really make you feel glamourous!! This little one had some great modeling poses in her fancy dress!! Don’t we all love to feel beautiful! <3 <3 <3

I hope you enjoy this new pattern as much as we all do!

The Timeless Tunic and Tiny Timeless will be a great weapon to pull out when you or your little one find that perfect woven fabric!

How to Sew a Faux Layered Look using Just One Pattern

September 9, 2016

The other day I was browsing Pinterest for some fall inspiration outfits but since I am now a resident of the sunshine state many of the fall looks I liked were not weather friendly. So what better way than to add “faux” layering to my shirts to pretend fall is in the air? 🙂

Today I’ll show you how I used the Women’s Henley shirt to make myself a “layered” shirt. I chose the simple crew neckline and the rolled sleeves option but this style would look amazing with the Henley style neckline or the hooded style.

Start by cutting the pattern based on your measurements. Ohh, by the way…did you see that the Henley got an updated? It now has layers so you can just print your desired size. Cut the hemmed shirt option and grab a piece of paper so you can draft the faux layers part. It’s easy-peasy, don’t be scared! Simply trace the curved hem option of the front pattern piece, measure 1.25 inches on the side seam and draw a straight line from that point to the center seam. Repeat the procedure with the back piece of the pattern. Now you will have two extra pattern pieces (front and back) that you need to cut on fold at the center.

Sew your shirt according to the pattern instruction, iron the 1 inch memory hem and set it aside before stitching it. We will now prepare the “faux” layer. With the right sides together sew the side seams with 1/2 inch seam allowance.

Once you have a loop-like piece you can go ahead and stitch the curved hem with your coverstitch or sewing machine. Press it! You are almost done. All you have left to do now is attach the layered part to your main shirt. Lay the main shirt on a flat surface and insert the faux layer piece matching the side seams. You can match the raw edges inside the shirt and pin all around the hem.

If you prefer your faux layer to be just “peeking” from under your shirt you can certainly place the layer a little higher inside the main shirt and pin in place. Stitch the bottom hem of the shirt and the faux layer together at about 1 inch above the fold.

You just made yourself a beautiful shirt that takes you from summer to fall. This style shirt pairs beautifully with the SOS pants and the Pirate Pencil skirt. As always, don’t forget to show off your layered creations in the group. Happy sewing, pirates!

Alex

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