tips Archives - Patterns for Pirates

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

February 10, 2021

P4P University – Armbands Tips and Tricks

I’m going to spend a little time today showing how I get the best finish on my armbands. They can be quite tricky to get right and people often struggle with ‘bubbling’ over the shoulder, which can ruin the look of an otherwise perfect neckline.

The pattern I will be using to illustrate how I sew my armbands is the Youth Essential Tank. There are many different cut lengths, from shirt to dress length and the option for a regular tank or a racerback cutline. Today I will be sewing the shirt length tank option for my daughter, ready for the summer weather which we are all desperate for right now!

The first thing to remember is that there are pattern pieces for you to use for the neckband and armband options and these are calculated at 85% of the opening, but the fabric you use may need you to make some adjustments to those pieces to get the perfect fit. A fabric like a 100% cotton interlock won’t have as much stretch as you may need and you will probably want to add a little length to your bands, perhaps recalculate at 90%. Something like a ribbing/cuffing has lots of stretch and that could be cut at 75 or 80% to get the same look. Either way you will want to ensure that you sew the shoulder and side seams of your garment at the full ½” seam allowance or you will find that the bands won’t be long enough, as not using the full seam allowance will make your neck/arm openings wider than they were drafted to be.

If you prefer a video, I filmed the process of making my Essential Tank here:

Sew your shoulder seams and then prep your neckband by sewing the short sides, right sides together to form a loop. Fold your fabric wrong sides together around the long edge and then place a clip at the joining seam. Place another clip at the other end of the band by stretching the band a little to find the centre point opposite the joining seam. Unlike a regular neckband, we won’t be quartering the neckhole and the neckband, just halving. Find the centre front and centre back of your neckhole and place clips. You should have this.

Next, evenly stretch the neckband until it fits the neckhole and clip the neckband to the neckhole at the shoulder seam (this won’t be the normal quarter point as the shoulder seam will be further towards the back). Then also place clips 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam NOT STRETCHING THE NECKBAND BETWEEN THESE THREE CLIPS. (If making an adult sized tank I wouldn’t stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the remaining neckband in between the clips either side of the shoulder seam and the centre front and back clips.

Sew the neckband on, making sure to use the full seam allowance, and remembering not to stretch the neckband over the shoulder seams. This reduces the tension on the neckband here and helps to stop the ‘bubbling’ we spoke of earlier. I prefer to sew with the band uppermost as it helps me keep an eye on the seam allowance. I also like to start sewing just before the shoulder seam as this is the area we will NOT be stretching as we sew. It is easy to forget about this if you come to it at the end of sewing the neckband on, so I like to do this part straightaway so I don’t have to worry about forgetting about it later.

TIP – If you have difficulty managing the three layers when sewing the neckband on, or if your fabric has a tendency to curl badly, I recommend sewing the neckband together around the long raw edge before attaching it to the bodice. You can either use your overlocker/serger without trimming any seam allowance off, or do a zig zag stitch with your sewing machine right at the edge (you may need to stretch the neckband slightly as you sew round, just to make sure it will still fit in the neckhole after sewing this temporary stitch). It just keeps those two layers together whilst you are sewing it onto the bodice, then you simply trim if off with your serger blade when you attach it, or trim with scissors if using a sewing machine.

Press with steam and then topstitch. You can either use a chain stitch as I have here, or a regular 2 or 3 needle coverstitch. If you have a sewing machine then you can choose a twin needle, long straight stitch or zig zag/stretch stitch of your choosing.

Next we move onto the armbands which are sewn in the same way as the neckband. First sew the short ends to form a loop, then fold wrong sides together and mark the seam and opposite point on the band with clips or pins.

The armbands are a little easier because more often than not you find the shoulder and underarm seams are opposite one another. I like to put the armband seam at the bottom of the armscye, for comfort and so you cannot see it when it is worn, then clip in place. Next clip the opposite end of the armband to the shoulder seam. Again, clip the armband to the armhole WITHOUT STRETCHING for 1 inch either side of the shoulder seam (again for a larger sized adult tank, I would not stretch for 2 inches either side of the shoulder seam), then ease the rest of the armband into the armhole between the other clips. The idea behind this is that it should allow the armband to run flat over the shoulder seam, but then the added tension around the bottom of the armband will encourage it to flip up and sit snug against the side of the body at the bottom and sides.

Sew, using the full seam allowance, then press with steam and top stitch as before.

Finish the rest of your garment as usual, and you’re done.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and don’t forget if you have any questions we have a large community on our Facebook page who are always happy to help.

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

P4P University Color Blocking Tips and Tricks

February 1, 2021

Hello, fellow sewing friends! I’m super excited to talk to you today about color blocking. As long as I’ve been in the sewing world color blocking has always been really popular. A lot of patterns even include it! But what if your favorite p4p pattern doesn’t have any color blocking options? Well, today I’m going to teach how to easily do it yourself! If you aren’t familiar with color blocking, it’s basically just adding interesting unique blocks of different fabrics to your pattern without altering the fit. It’s a great way to spice up a regular t-shirt, use up some scraps, and make for some fun visual art. You can color block anything from sleeves, front bodice, back bodice, legs, hoods, if it has a pattern piece- you can color block it. Now, let’s get started!

First, you’ll want to pick your pattern and print out your chosen size. (If you are using a projector you can do it but I highly recommend printing whatever piece you want to color block. For my example, I color-blocked just the front bodice so I printed that and then used my projector to cut the rest of my pieces. ) Now if you plan on doing any “angled” color blocks and your pattern piece is on a fold- I recommend tracing the mirror image and attaching it to your piece so you have the “full piece”. I used The Basic tee for my son and chose to only block the front of the shirt.

Now the fun part- Choosing your color block! Honestly, you can really do anything so just start drawing! I use a straight edge to make sure my lines are nice and tidy (easier to sew that way). The only thing I would avoid is really complicated shapes or anything like a floating “v-point” that doesn’t reach an end (you can see my example below in the red no box). If you are new to this technique I’d start simple to get the hang of it and then you can expand from there. This is what I drew out and what will be the final “look” of my shirt.

Once you’ve drawn your color-blocked lines you’ll want to cut them all out and these are your new pieces. Decide which fabric you want for what piece and it’s time to start cutting.

Now here’s the most important part- You’ll need to add seam allowance to those pieces. You can choose whatever amount but I usually go with 1/4 inch. Now you can either do this by laying your new pieces on a piece of paper and adding it to that piece so it becomes part of your pattern piece.

Or what I do is simply use my quilting ruler while cutting to add it to my piece. So for the cut part of my piece that needs seam allowance, I just line my quilting ruler 1/4 over my cut paper line and then use my rotary blade to cut that line instead of my paper line.

Make sure you add seam allowance to every place that you cut out a color block line on your pattern piece.

Now it’s time to sew! If you decided to do any intersecting lines like this one I did. You’ll want to sew those pieces together first. So line up your piece edges right sides together and sew with the seam allowance you chose. You’ll then want to topstitch your seam allowance down.

(Tip- if you are using a coverstitch I like to do a reverse coverstitch on the seam allowances with a fun color to add some extra “pop” to my color blocking).

Now repeat this with your other pieces until they all come back together. It should finish at the same size as your initial pattern piece before you added color blocking.

Finally, you can sew your garment together as recommended by the pattern. The only difference is you have a cool color-blocked piece instead of a plain piece!

Yay! All done!! Can’t wait to see what you all create!

Happy Sewing,

Michelle

Vintage Jumper – Easy Hacks

October 1, 2020

The Vintage Romper is here and we couldn’t be more excited to share with you the blog team’s take on some easy hacks. Grab your patterns and let’s get started!

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Pants/skirt

Do you love shorts like we love shorts?! Then you’re in the right place. I’m going to spend a little time today showing you how to hack the new Vintage Romper into a shorts or skirt only piece. It couldn’t be easier and I have even filmed a little tutorial showing you how to adapt the waistband pattern piece and then put the waistband together too, which you can find here:

However, if you like it old skool here is the written blog post.

First you will want to cut out your skirt or pants pieces as per the regular tutorial. Then take your waistband piece and double the height of it. I used the Youth pattern to make mine and this measured 2 inches in height so I doubled it to make it 4 inches tall and then cut the length out as usual. I wasn’t going to use the strap pieces so I extended the waistband height out over the strap piece here, just to save paper. Cut your waistband lining piece out in the same way.

Waistband piece cut with the height doubled

shorts pieces, pockets, waistband outer and lining.

You will then have your pants/shorts/skirt pieces; pockets if using; extended waistband pieces; interfacing if using. Construct the rest of your garment as usual until you get to the section where you have to attach the waistband. You will attach the waistband as per the tutorial, the only difference being you don’t have the bib and straps to sandwich between the outer and lining of the waistband pieces. So you will attach the waistband outer right sides together with the pants/skirt.

Waistband with overhang

You will have an overhang of the waistband over the edge of the pants piece . This is correct, it enables you to attach a fastening for the top of the waistband at the end, like a button and buttonhole or poppers. Then sew the lining right sides together with the outer, up one short edge, along the top and down the other short edge.

Clip your corners, turn it through.

Topstitching after pressing

Press and topstitch around the entire waistband.

Then finish off your garment as per the regular tutorial instructions and you’re done!

We style them with tights, Doc Martins and a crop length Hepburn. I loved it so much on the shorts I had to do it for the skirt too!

Anyone else find that their child turns into a karate expert as soon as you turn on a camera?!

Obviously you can also just sew this up with the regular height of the original waistband too. The choice is all yours!

Happy sewing!

Dana x

Front zipper

Up next we wanted to show you a different style jumper that can be achieved with the new Vintage pattern. Let’s add a zipper to the front instead of the side. This a s great opportunity to show off your favorite zippers and pulls. For my example I am using zipper by the yard with a fun rainbow finish zipper pull. I also went with a Doodles French Terry instead of stretch woven. Cut your pattern as instructed in the tutorial. You will make two changes. Remove the part of the waistband beyond the notch on both ends. Repeat for the waistband lining. The other modification would be for the bib. Cut two 2 mirror images instead of 1 set mirror pieces and the lining on fold.

After sewing the darts on the back pants pieces, sew the back crotch seam and the two side seams. The pants will not be sewn at the front crotch just yet.

Prepare the bib by sewing the left side main and lining piece right sides together along the top and slanted side raw edge. Repeat for the ride side bib. You will now have two bib piece that will have raw edges on the vertical center seam and bottom.

Attach the main print waistband to the pants right sides together by matching the center to the center back and the raw edged to the front raw front seam.

Pin the straps matching the strap placement notches. Place the bib on the top edge of the waistband, right sides together matching the raw edges. Repeat on the other side with the other half of the bib. Place the lining on top, right side down, sandwiching the bib in between the main and lining waistband. Stitch in place.

Mark the place of the zipper stop on the wrong sides of the fabric. Place the front of the jumper right sides together matching the front raw edge. Baste in place from the top to the marked point and sew in place down from that point along the front crotch seam. Attach the zipper using the same technique as in the Vintage Jumper tutorial.

Finish your jumper by attaching the straps to the front and hemming. All done! I can’t wait to see your take on this hack.

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Overall buckles

Love the Vintage Jumper, but you’re terrified of button holes? Never fear! Buckles are here!

Adding buckles as a button replacement is an easy and super cute hack… no extra sewing involved!

For the Vintage Jumper, you’ll need 1 ¼” buckles. I ordered mine from WAWAK and they came within 2 days, but you can also order from Amazon or pick them up in your local fabric store.

I’ve put together a video tutorial, but if you prefer written instructions, just scroll a bit further!

Mark your button placement on the bib with tailor’s chalk, 1” from the top and side edge of the bib.

Take your button post and push it through the backside of your bib, at your chalk mark, going through all layers of your fabric.

Protecting the front side of your button (as I’ve done here with a simple cloth bag), hammer the button post into the button.

Thread your straps through the buckles, starting with the top…

Running through the bottom…

Back through the middle…

And behind the front of the strap, back through the top loop.

Give yourself plenty of play in your straps to make fit adjustments

5. Adjust the straps to your preference and you’re done!

I have always loved overalls! I am so glad to have this updated pair in my wardrobe. As with all Patterns for Pirates makes, you can’t stop with one. I already have the fabric ready to make another pair soon.

I hope you enjoy your new jumper!!

Rachel

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Skip the Zip

If you’d rather skip the zip you can choose a fabric with high stretch and recovery and slip it on/off. It’s a very simple modification, just make sure your fabric is stretchy enough to slip on and off with the snug waistband at natural waist. You will want a fabric that is more stable and can “hold” that waistband shape nicely. Or you can add some 1″ elastic into the waistband to help keep the shape.

Cut out all your pieces the same, except the waistband. You will need to trim off the extra 1″ on each end since we will not have them overlapping for a button. If you’re adding elastic I cut mine just slightly shorter then my new waistband piece so it would be snug to her waist.

Instead of sewing your zip into your side seam you’ll just stitch it up. Stitch your waistband pieces into a circle. If you are adding elastic sew it into a circle as well.

You will follow the same steps as the tutorial attaching the main waistband piece, sandwiching the straps and bib between the main and lining waistband, and top-stitching band. You will just be sewing in a complete circle rather then having the ends that overlap for a button.

All done, now you can just slip it on/off with no zip!

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Zipper Guard

If the feeling of the zipper on your skin bothers you- you can add a simple zipper guard quickly and easily. You will cut out 2 rectangles (you can curve the bottom edge if you’d like I did or leave it a rectangle) a little longer (1-2″) then your zipper and about 2″ wide.

Stitch your pieces right sides together along one long and short edge like a L (J if you curved your corner like me) shape. Trim seam allowance and flip right sides out. Press and stitch.

Place your zipper guard along the side seam with zipper with the raw edges aligned to the seam allowance of the front pant/skirt. Stitch guard to seam allowance (do not stitch through pant/skirt).

Pin in place from front. Stitch in the ditch along your zipper seam on the front pant/skirt through the zipper guard.

You can also continue to stitch in the ditch across the bottom and up just a little to help keep the guard in place when taking on/off. This is what it will look like after with the zipper guard keeping the zip from touching your skin:

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Add some Ears

Adding a little face and ears is always a way to make my daughter super happy with something I sew her. She requested a kitty for this one after seeing one similar at a store. It was such an easy little modification. I simple free-handed the ears… but we do have some ears in the Oversized Sweater-Youth pattern and I used the faces from our free Animal Faces for our Jolly Roger Raglan. I only freehanded the ears to make sure they fit perfectly and…. well… I didn’t want to print anything 😉

Stitch the ears up and sandwich them between the main and lining bib. Ta-da… that’s it! So cute and simple!

What an amazing line up! We look forward to seeing your own “”hacked” Vintage Jumper creations on Facebook and Insta.

P4P University – Elastic

September 27, 2020

P4P University – Elastic 101

Hi, I’m Dana one of the P4P team and I’m here today to talk all about elastic with you! We’ll be covering lots of different types of elastic that you may want to use in your sewing and showing your some examples of what they look like sewn up into finished garments, the times you may want to use them and the stitches I like to use to get the best finish.

To go alongside this blog post, I have filmed a video which you can find on the P4P You Tube channel here:

P4P University Elastics 101 Video

So, first things first, before you sew with any elastic there is one thing you will always want to do with it before you begin – exercise it! Give it a good tug several times to make sure if it is going to stretch out it does it now and not after you have finished your garment. There is nothing worse than something which fits great at first and then soon starts to get baggy.

Let’s introduce and cover off some types of elastic you are likely to encounter when home sewing:

Regular Knit Elastic

This comes in many different widths, depending on your need. Pictured are 1″, 1.5″ and 2″ elastics. Usually white or black in colour, I generally choose white because you can’t see it under lighter coloured fabrics. This plain version is usually used for something like an enclosed elastic waistband, where the elastic is fed through a casing to form the waistband. These SOS Pants have an enclosed elastic waistband. It makes for a soft and comfortable to wear garment.

SOS Pants with enclosed elastic waistband

However, you can also find patterned elastics, like this:

Patterned Knit Elastic

and these can be used as a waistband in their own right, just by top stitching in place of a casing. Super quick and easy way to finish a skirt or pair of shorts! Just wrap around your waist and cut to size, then butt the short ends and zig zag stitch together to form a loop. Quarter the elastic, quarter the top of the garment and sew right on.

Buttonhole Elastic

This is great if you have small people that keep shooting up overnight, like me! You can use it in a waistband secured with a button, and then unbutton it as they grow. Great for things with lots of ease drafted in, like the Walk The Planks. Just remember to cut it a little longer than needed when you first sew it in so you have room to lengthen it.

Clear Elastic

Clear Elastic is one of the things I had never heard of before I started sewing and now it’s the thing I use the most. I use it for gathering skirts to fit bodices, like the Sweetheart Dress; for stabilizing shoulder seams on lightweight stretchy fabrics like rayon spandex, that have a tendency to grow otherwise; for adding ruching; and for adding extra strength to the seams of stretch fabrics under pressure, like in a sports bra, where it just serge it right on when sewing the seam itself. Again this comes in different widths, pictures is 3/8″ and 1/4″.

Swim Elastic

As it’s name suggests Swim Elastic is used in swimwear. Regular elastic can perish under the combined attack of both strong sunlight and chlorine, so it is best to use this type of elastic in swimwear to ensure it stands up to the test of time. I often use clear elastic in swimwear too, both work fine, you just don’t want to use a regular knit elastic because when your pull your swimsuit out after a winter in storage you will probably find that the elastic has perished and lost all it stretch. If you’re going to take all that time to make a custom swim suit, you may aswell try and make sure it lasts.

Sunflower Swim Top

I used several different widths of swim elastic in this Sunflower Swim Top to get the best fit for me, including 3/8″, 1/2″ and 1″.

Picot Elastic

Picot Elastic is often thought of as a lingerie elastic, and it’s great for that but I think it’s also really pretty when used to finish the neckline and sleeves of a dress, where you just see the little picots popping out from the inside.

Me Hearties Dress

I used picot to finish the neckline and sleeves of this Trixie Lulamoon dress I made for my daughter’s birthday using the Me Hearties Dress pattern. I just serged it on right sides together, flipped it down to the inside and then top stitched it with a triple zig zag stitch. This is my favourite stitch for top stitching elastic because it is a really great stretchy stitch but it is also quite a wide stitch and that helps stop the elastic from flipping up.

Fold Over Elastic

You will often see Fold Over Elastic being abbreviated to FOE in sewing groups, but as you would imagine from its name you fold it over the raw edge of the fabric and top stitch in place. You can either use your coverstitch if you have one, or just sew with a triple zig zag stitch.

Fierce Bra and SOS Pants

It is used in the Fierce Bra to finish the top raw edge of the bra and also form the straps. It takes a bit of practise to get used to handling it at first but it a very useful tool to have in your arsenal!

Soft Waistband Elastic

Lastly we’re going to talk about Soft Waistband Elastic. You will probably recognise this as the type of elastic used on men’s boxers. It is thick, soft, super stretchy and has great recovery and we use it both as the underbust band on the Fierce Bra and the waistband on the Fierce Undies.

Fierce Bra and Undies

You can either serge or sew the band on like a regular knit band, flip up and top stitch the seam down or you can just sew the band into a loop by butting the short ends together and then topstitch it right onto the top raw edge of the fabric, like in the picture above. It makes sure your undies don’t shift all day whilst still being super comfortable to wear. It comes in lots of different colours and some fun printed designs too and is designed to stay visible and not be sewn inside a casing.

Hopefully that has helped give you an idea of the types of elastic you might encounter whilst sewing and what yu may need them for. Don’t forget to watch the video that accompanies this post for more examples to guide you and…

Happy Sewing!

Dana x

X Factor Sew Along – day 6

August 29, 2020

Last sewing day is here…and it’s probably the most rewarding one. Today we will get to see the project come to life. For the crop option you will be attaching the band to the bodice matching the side seams. Keep in mind that it is much easier to sew a couple of inches on each side of the center seam with your sewing machine (using a stretch stitch!) than it is to sew all around the waist with only the serger. If you are sewing the dress option, you would need to make sure that the waistband is sandwiched between the skirt and the bodice, right sides together.

Last steps of this sew along are hemming the sleeves and skirt. If you did the crop tank, you are already done. The sleeves are hemmed 1/2″. Did you make your memory hem a few days ago? Well now it comes in handy. The skirt is hemmed 1″ while the sleeves are hemmed 1/2″. In the video below you can see how I finish the dress option including the 1″ hem.

Thank you so much for joining us this week. We loved watching your creations come to life! Don’t forget to post your final photo in the comments of day 6 check in picture of the sew along album. We will pick two winners and announce them here on the blog Monday evening or Tuesday.

X Factor Sew Along – day 5

August 28, 2020

Welcome to day 5 of our X Factor sew along! Today we create the skirt by adding the optional pockets and sewing the side seams. If you are making the crop top style, today is a rest or catch up day. No need for any check in pictures.

You might have noticed in the first video of this sew along that I added the pockets to my pattern piece (removing the seam allowance) so I will not have to stitch them. One less step 😉 In the video below I show you how I use my serger to sew the side seams instead of a combination of sewing machine and serger. Both methods work great so chose the one you are more comfortable.

Reminder: the patten includes two links to complete sew ups of the X Factor so you can also follow Judy’s method of sewing the side seams when the skirt has pockets. And why would you even consider skipping the pockets? 😊

If you are doing the dress option, check in for day 5 in the comment of today’s photo of the sew along album. See you back here tomorrow for the final steps!

X Factor Sew Along – day 4

August 27, 2020

Day 4 is here! Today we add the neckband and the back band. If you are new to sewing with knits or simply would like a refresher, take a look over our P4P University Neckbands 101 blog post. This blog shows you how to create the crew neck. The most important thing to keep in ming when creating and adding the crew neckband is to press, press, press!

In the Day 4 video below I walk you through creating and adding the V neckband. This is a slightly different way of creating the neckband than I showed in the P4P University V neckband blog. This time we will overlap the ends creating the V point that way. I highly encourage you to add the V part of the neckline with the sewing machine, instead of a serger. It will make for a more precise stitch and a neater look.

Last step is to stitch the back band to the front one. Keep in mind that the front band is attached to the bodice. Overlap the parts that will become the waistband one time (doesn’t matter if you overlap left on top of right or vice versa). With the right sides together sew the side seams of the band following the 1/2″ seam allowance.

Don’t forget to add your check in photo to the comments of Day 4 in the X Factor sew along album. See you back here tomorrow!

X Factor Sew Along – day 3

August 26, 2020

Ahoy, pirates! Today’s steps include adding the sleeves or armbands (for the tank option) and sewing the side seams. I have decided to make a long sleeve dress to wear on chillier Florida days.

For the short, 3/4 and long sleeves start by pressing a memory a 1/2 hem. If you are doing the cuffed long sleeves style, you will not be needing the memory hem.
If you opted for the tank style, start by pressing the bands lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open them up and sew the short ends to create a loop.

Tip: when pinning the sleeved to the arm opening start with the shoulder seam, then pin the two outer corners. This will make easing the sleeves into the opening very easy. There shouldn’t be any stretch, but you will ease the concave curve into the convex one.

When adding the arm bands to the tank option, you want to avoid stretching the band too much on the front and back. The most stretch should be at the armpit and shoulder. This will help ensure that the bands lay nicely when worn.

Day 3 video is below. As always, don’t forget to add your progress photo to the comments of today’s check in photo in the sew along album.

X Factor Sew Along – day 2

August 25, 2020

Welcome to day 2 of our X Factor Sew along. Today is a pretty easy and quick day. We sew the front seam of the bodice and the shoulder seams. Place the two mirror front bodice pieces right sides together, matching the center seam. Using your sewing machine, stitch a couple of inches at the bottom with a 1/2 seam allowance. You can sew the rest of the front seam with the serger if you prefer.

Once this step is completed you will sew the shoulder seams right sides together, following a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Tip: Add clear elastic to the shoulder seams to strengthen them and make sure the shoulders don’t stretch throughout the day.

We have included two FULL pattern sew ups in the tutorial (see page 7). Judy has covered all options in the two videos so you can always refer to them throughout the week.

Upon completion of today’s steps snap a picture of your progress and add it to the day 2 check in photo comments in the X factor SAL album located in the P4P & M4M sew along group.

X Factor Sew Along – day 1

August 24, 2020

Welcome to the X Factor Crop and Dress sew along!

In the next 6 days we will be sewing together the newest P4P pattern. Join us for a chance to win some fabric and pattern money and have fun alongside our community! If you have not purchased your copy yet, you can buy the adult X Factor here, the youth one here, or you can get the bundle and save. If you are still undecided which style to make, our Round Up blog will give you a glance at all options included, from sleeve lengths to necklines. You can also use the Easy Hacks blog for added options.

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. The X Factor patterns include videos as well. On page 3 you will notice an active button that will take you to the video about adding or removing length. Please refer to it if you are taller or shorter than 5’5″.

Unsure about which knit type will work best for your desired look? Take a look over our P4P University Knit Types blog. We also included a cheat sheet that you can print. If you are like me and sometime are just keen on using a specific print for a specific pattern, read our Different fabric, different fit blog post before you cut your fabric.

The P4P team has started adding Projector Files to our new patterns. If you are looking to skip printing, buying rims of paper and ink, this new innovative way of cutting your patterns may be the option for you. I am using a mix of printed and projected pattern pieces for my dress.

The X Factor is drafted for high and 4 way stretch knit fabric. My personal recommendations are rayon spandex, bamboo lycra, ITY, Cupro and double brushed poly. You can also use athletic knit and certain sweater knits. During this sew along I will be making the V neck dress style using a stunning Mily Mae Fabrics burgundy bamboo spandex. MMF is also this sew along’s sponsor so two lucky winners will receive gift certificates to their shopping website.

You can see the first video below, including how I use my projector file for the bodice. Once you cut the fabric, post a picture of your pretty pile in the comments of DAY 1 photo of the X Factor album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along Group.