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Lumberjack Sew Along – day 4

January 27, 2022

Welcome to the 4th day of the Lumberjack sew along. Today we finish the sleeves with either cuffs.

Knit cuffs

The simplest way to finish the sleeves is with a knit cuff. Make sure that the fabric you use has great recovery and stretch. My favorite bases for cuffs are cotton spandex, rib knit and french terry. It is very important that you follow the grain of the fabric when cutting the cuffs. Lastly, press! Press and press some more! You will love the finished cuffs much better if you press throughout.

Woven cuffs

I opted for the woven cuffs for my Lumberjack. I love the classic look. If you have not done the vertical slits marked on the pattern pieces, now is the time to add them. You will now bind the opening with the fabric piece that is cut on the bias. Remember, the lining is the interfaced piece.

Tip: Do not skip pressing the lining 1/2″ along the bottom. It will make a world of difference when you stitch the cuff on.

If you need any visual help, take a look over today’s video. I show you step by step how to add woven cuffs to your Lumberjack shirt. Once you finish the steps, post a photo of your progress in the comments of day 4 photo of this sew along album.

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 3

January 26, 2022

Ahoy, pirates! Today, on day 3, we add the sleeves and sew the side seams.

Sleeves

Start by running a basting stitch along the curve of the sleeve. Gently and ever so slightly pull on the basting threads so it creates a faint gather. This will help when easing the sleeves into the sleeve opening. Pin the sleeves to the bodice, matching the shoulder seams with the notches. Stitch down with a 1/2″ seam allowance making sure that there are no puckers or folds along the curve.

If you are doing the unlined option, finish the raw edge with your serger or a zig zag stitch. If you are sewing the lined option, repeat these steps for the lining.

Inseam pockets

Before you sew the side seams you have to add the pockets. You will notice that the pattern features two different pocket shapes depending on whether you line or not your Lumberjack. While the unlined pockets may seem “odd” they, are drafted this way so they will be stitched into the front placket. This will ensure that the pocket won’t peek out from under the shirt when worn.

Make sure that you add the pocket placement slits/marking from the pattern pieces! It’s highly important that you follow the marking instructions.

Side seams

Once the pockets are sewing in the side seams, place the shirt right sides together matching the underarm points. Sew with a 1/2″ seam allowance. If you opted for the unlined style, finish the raw edge with your serger. If you are doing the lined style, sew the side seams of the lining as well. Place your lining into the main, wrong sides together. Going forward you will treat this as one piece.

Front placket

Press the front placket along the first fold line, then along the second one. Pin the lining front or the unlined option pockets in the front placket fold. Stitch down and press.

You can see today’s video below. Once you complete the steps, post a photo of your progress in the comments of day 3 photo of the Lumberjack SAL album. See you back here tomorrow when we will sew the cuffs.

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 2

January 25, 2022

Welcome to day 2 of the Lumberjack sew along. Today we create and sew the chest pockets and the shoulder seams. This shirt features two optional chest pockets that tie the lumberjack look together. I would not skip them. Judy is showing you some tips to help you sew the chest pocket below.

I sew my chest pockets slightly different so definitely check out today’s video as well. I give you my tips and tricks for achieving a beautiful looking chest pocket. Once you added the chest pockets to the two front pieces, you are ready to sew the shoulder seams.

If you are doing the lined option, you will be sewing the shoulder seam right sides together of the lining pieces as well as the main. I opted for the unlined style for my Lumberjack shirt so we will be sewing the shoulder seams using the burrito method. First, place the outer yoke and back piece right sides together. Now sandwich the back piece in between the right sides of the outer and lining yoke. Stitch in place and top stitch. Roll the back piece into a “burrito” and bring it up so that the front shoulders are sandwiched in between the RTS of the back yoke lining and main fabric. Stitch and optionally top stitch.

You can see all these steps in today’s video. Once you complete day 2 steps, post a photo of your progress in the comments of day 2 photo of the sew along album. See you back her tomorrow for day 3!

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack Sew Along – day 1

January 24, 2022

Welcome to the Lumberjack SEW ALONG!

Let’s get the Lumberjack party started! If you have not purchased the Lumberjack pattern(s) you can grab them here:

Lumberjack Youth

Lumberjack Hourglass

Lumberjack V figure

And of course, our bundle for the whole family

Before you select which style you are sewing along, take a look at the Round Up Blog where we show you all options available.

Now that you have the patterns it’s time to select which file format you would like to use. Both the Youth and the Adult come in A4 and Letter format to print at home, A0 format to print with a plotter or at a copy shop AND a projector file. If you use the projector file you will not have to print anything!! That’s definitely my favorite way! You can see in today’s video how I use the file to cut the fabric.

Note: The tutorial is now a separate file from the pattern pieces.

Let’s start by taking the measurements needed for the best fit. P4P has an amazing blog that gives you tips for accurately taking your measurements. You can read all about it here. If your measurements put you in a different size for chest/waist/hips be sure to check out our P4P University blog and grade to achieve the perfect fit. All 3 Lumberjack shirt patterns have straight side seams and relaxed fit so it is a little more giving when it comes to grading for the waist.

Let’s talk fabric! The Lumberjack pattern is drafted for woven fabrics like flannel, light weight denim, light weight wool or medium weight cotton woven. For the lining you can use minky, fleece, flannel, french terry, sherpa…pretty much your preferred soft, cuddly fabric. For this sew along I am using a brushed flannel that I got from Joann fabrics. For the closures I am going to add spring snaps. Buttons are an option too 😉

Day 1 video is posted below. Check it out and once you are done cutting your fabric post a picture of it in the comments of the Day 1 photo of the Lumberjack SAL album in the M4M & P4P Sew Along group. If you sew more than one, post each one in a separate pic!

Lumberjack Sew along – day 1 | cut fabric

Lumberjack Sew along – day 2 | chest pocket, shoulder seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 3 | sleeves, side seams

Lumberjack Sew along – day 4 | cuffs

Lumberjack Sew along – day 5 | hood/collar

Lumberjack Sew along – day 6 | hemming, closures

Lumberjack Sew along – day 7 | winners announcement

New Pattern Release :: Kelli and Charli’s Dress

January 7, 2022

We’re starting of 2022 with a bang! The Kelli’s and Charli’s Dress pattern will have you feeling fabulous and glamorous throughout the year! When I put on the Kelli’s Dress I cannot help but strike a pose and smile… and I hope you feel the same when you put yours on! The Kelli’s and Charli’s Dresses have a beautiful gathered detail to the wasitline that gives a lovely and flattering line. You can grab those thinner, dressier knits that aren’t stable enough for wiggles and galas and now have the perfect dress to use them on!

Named for one of my life long friends, Kelli’s Dress has a gorgeous gathering detail along the side seam from underbust to high hip creating a beautiful detail and flattering lines. The cross over V neck is again a flattering open neckline, but with 4 way stretch fabrics, it can give you a lot of wiggle room to play with the neckline coverage. Sleeve options will take you from summer to winter in a heart beat and the different lengths will take you from casual to a formal event easily. The dramatic floor length with split is the most fun thing you’ll wear! You cannot help but instantly feel glamourous and start striking poses. Not wanting to show off all that leg? No problem, the floor length also has a no split option that is still stunning. Shorter lengths are mini for a fun night out or knee for a perfect everyday look or cocktail in different fabrics. Kelli’s Dress is drafted for thin to medium stretch knits absolutely perfect for those stretchy glitter poly blends you find, double brushed poly, stretch lace, waffle knit, sweater knit, ribbed knits, light weight cotton spandex, and stretch velvet. The options for the Kelli’s Dress include:

Tank, Cap Sleeve, 3/4 Sleeve, and Long Sleeve
Mini, Knee, Floor with Slit, and Floor with No Slit (Charli’s-Youth has Knee and Floor Length only).
Neckline Facings or Elastic Hem

The youth sizes range from 3m – 14 and the adult sizes are for the full, newer size chart, extending from XXS – Plus 5X for the Hourglass Figure and XXS-6XL for the V Figure. *Want to learn more about how to measure yourself for these pattern? We’ve got you covered with an in-depth blog HERE. And in case you’re new to Patterns for Pirates and PDF patterns in general, we have a great blog full of new-user tips HERE to help you get started! As with all of our current releases and updates, the pdfs now include our layers feature and can be found in Letter, A4, A0 and projector sizes. And for even more helpful fun, we have a free* printable that you can use to help record your measurements as you take them.

Let’s take a look at the different ways we can sew up these patterns!

KELLI AND CHARLI DRESS OPTIONS

SLEEVES :: TANK, CAP, 3/4, AND LONG

LENGTHS: KELLI’S: MINI, KNEE, FLOOR WITH SLIT, FLOOR WITH NO SLIT

LENGTHS: CHARLI’S: KNEE AND FLOOR

FACING NECKLINE FINISH AND ELASTIC HEM NECKLINE FINISH

I cannot wait to see everyone feeling extra special in their Charli and Kelli Dresses! Head on over and grab yourself a copy of the new patterns! They are available on sale (no code needed) through 11:59pm CST, Saturday January 15, 2022.

CHARLI’S DRESS – YOUTH

KELLI’S DRESS- ADULT HOURGLASS FIGURE

KELLI & CHARLI BUNDLE

Maybe hoping for a little more inspiration before you make the purchase? You can see a few little modifactions can give you even more options HERE!

Head over to our Facebook group where you can see tester albums full of amazing images!

Charli’s Dress – Youth Album

Kelli’s Dress- Hourglass Album

Sublimination Fun

November 17, 2021

What’s more fun than being able to create the exact garment you or a loved one is aching for? I’ve included a “Sublimination Bundle” as a prize in our Fall Sale and Giveaway this year, so I can gift the joy of making something even more custom to a lucky sewist. Since it’s not directly sewing related, I thought I would explain a bit more about it!

I recently got a teeny tiny bit into sublimination and I can’t help but share how fun it is with my fellow sewist! The quick run down is sublimination is the process of using special sublimination ink and sublimination paper to dye polyester. So, it is limiting to what fabrics you can use… the higher the polyester content, the better print you will get. Don’t mind a more “vintage, worn look”? Then you can get away with as low as 50% polyester. Other than that, if you want a crispt image… poly, poly, poly.

Here is a 50% poly after a wash. So you can see the difference.

If you’re a double brushed poly fan… good news 😉 Works great! So do performance fabrics, ITY, sweatshirt, sweater, waffle, french terry, that are polyester with a little bit of spandex. The lighter the fabric, the better the image will look as well. Since we’re printing with an ink jet printer, we have black, blue, yellow, and pink inks to mix. No white. So, sine we can’t print white… we can’t dye white onto the poly. Got a dark fabric and want a snowman? Sublimination ain’t going to work lol… You can get away with lighter, pastel colors as long as you’re not wanting anything white on the image. Here I’m using a white poly sweater knit knit, which is perfectly soft and cozy and will give me a nice, crisp image.

Lets go over what you need to do this process first. *These are affiliate links.

First and foremost, you’ll need a printer with sublimination ink… YouTube has told me that these Epson Ecotank printers are the easiest for someone just wanting to craft at home.

Don’t you put that ink that comes with it in the printer though! Don’t do it! Instead, you’ll need to fill it with sublimination ink… luckily I’ve found ink that matches the ink refills perfectly, meaning they’re super easy to use!

You’ll need sublimination paper as well. There are a lot of brands, and I haven’t used hardly any yet… so I’m no expert on which is the best! I’ve used this one and it worked great for me so far.

Next big item you’ll want is a heat press. Some can be pretty big, bulky and hard to store. But, I found this smaller one that will still cover a 12×10″ area and I think it would be perfect for a home crafter! Want a bigger one? Here is the one I have.

I like to use this heat tape to hold my image in place when I press as well, so I included it in the Sublimination Bundle Prize in the Fall 2021 Giveaway! Along with some teflon sheets to keep from scortching fabrics and giving a nice even heat. You’ll also want some plain paper. You can use the plain paper to put inside a shirt if it’s already sewn up so the ink doesn’t go through to the back piece and on top so it doesn’t go through to your teflon sheet or heat press.

Okay, now we have our supplies we can jump into how to do it!

First up you’ll want an image… anything you’d like on the garment. I usually create mine in my Sihlouette Studio, because it’s an easy to use software (that’s free for everyone). You can also use photoshop or Illustrator if you’re an Adobe fan. Anything you can print from.

You’ll want to set up your printing settings to mirror the image (or mirror it before you print). And to have a high quality print, with true colors… here is a screenshot of my printer settings. Some of these settings you’ll need to click through the advanced section.

Print out your image. Don’t worry if the colors look a little dull, they will brighten up when you press it… unless you’re not using an all poly content 😉 Tear around your image. You heard me… tear it instead of cutting it. The tearing helps blend that “edge” instead of a crisp line.

Place your image where you’d like on the fabric, already cut pattern piece, or finished garment. (Note… if you’re using a finished garment you’ll want to place a sheet a paper between so the ink doesn’t bleed through to the back… I’ve actually never had it bleed though to the paper yet… but you never want to cry over that and you can re-use that piece of paper over and over!) Use the heat tape to keep your printed image in place.

Set your settings as the paper instructs. Although, this paper suggests 356-374 degrees F at 25-30 seconds… and after searching the internet, asking other crafty friends, and experimenting… I suggest 400degrees at 60 seconds. It’s what has worked best for me. Now for the magic…press that sucker!

https://youtu.be/ygQAiSzwcyE

Peel off tape and image and look at your beautiful, custom design. How fun is that? My Baby Boy has REALLY enjoyed being able to ask mom to make him some special shirts of characters we can’t normally find in his size! And now Baby Girl can have all the rainbow unicorns on her things that are 2 sizes down in width than height that fit her best too.

Once you have all your things set up, this is such a quick process for adding something fun, custom and unique to a garment! Now when my kids let me know about that spirit day they’d like a custom, mom-made shirt for the NIGHT BEFORE… I can do that and not stay up half the night 😉

Fall Sale and Giveaway 2021

November 14, 2021

Fall time brings cooler weather and the thoughts of thankfulness! I’m forever grateful to anyone who likes, follows, commnets, purchases from my shop over the years. It has allowed me to follow a dream of mine! To say thank you we’re having a site side sale (we only ever have 2-3 a year… this will be our last one in 2021!) and a fun, simple giveaway for a few lucky winners! Of course everyone will be a winner who sews up something they love for their wardrobe or a loved ones wardrobe too!

The site wide sale- code is Fall2021, but don’t worry about memorizing or jotting it down… the code will pop up automatically for you at the cart, just click to apply!

The giveaway also begins today and is very simple to join in! Just put #PatternsforPiratesSew with any Patterns for Pirates garment you sew up during the time frame. You cannot enter old sews, but anything you start after today and finish before 11/27/21 ends you can enter!

We have 3 Grand Prizes for the giveaway. Winners will be picked at random- so all skill levels are encouraged to join in the fun! You can even let me know which prize you’re wishing for in your entries… so if your entry is randomly picked, I just might be able to give you the prize that would fit best in your sewing space!

(Note- I’m using affiliate links here if you happen to purchase any from these links.)

Perfect Fit Bundle includes a customizable dress form (these come in medium and plus size ranges) and one of my all time favorite fitting book! Great for any sewist wanting to step up their fitting expertise.

The Sublimination Bundle is the one for the sewist who seems to have all the sewing things already. With this printer, ink, paper, and heat press you can now customize your polyester makes with ease. Print whatever image you’d like using this ink and paper, press it onto the polyester with the heat press… and you’ve got the perfect, custom item. Don’t worry, we will write up a quick blog about this soon if you’ve never heard of it before! It’s a lot of fun… my kids especially love it!

Last prize is the Brother 1034D Serger. This is the serger I’ve always highly recommended to any beginners wanting a more affordable way to add a serger to their machines. It is such a popular model that it’s so easy finding helpful blogs, videos, tutorials on anything you might need help with learning to use it.

We will also be picking random winners through the giveaway to surprise with some freebies like fabric and sewist swag from past month Fabric for Pirates and free Patterns for Pirates patterns!

A few more details:

The item sewn up and shared must be a P4P pattern that creates a piece of clothing (shirt, pants jacket, etc. This means no accessories like hats, scarfs,etc.) You can use a free pattern as long as it is clothing like the Tulip Tee or Peg Legs.
- You need to sew it up as is, with only fit changes (so no hacks or modifications). Adding embellishments is great, just no major changes, pattern mashes, etc. Fit changes may include maternity/nursing changes. Overall we should easily recognize the pattern.
Share your pictures on one or all of the social media networks for more chances to win with hashtag #PatternsforPiratesSew — it must be EXACT to come up in our search for the winner!
Let us know what P4P pattern you sewed up and what you’re most looking forward to winning or tell us a bit about how you fell in love with sewing, what you love most about sewing, etc!
You can share as many sews as you can for more chances to win–but ALL items/images shared must be sewn AFTER the giveaway starts 11/15/2021! Any older sews will be disqualified from winning either prizes. Last entries accepted will be 11/27/2021 at 11:59PM US Central Time.
Winner will be random lottery winner! So everyone has a chance from a beginner who might be sewing their first P4P to a seasoned apparel sewist!

Since you might need to grab a new pattern to get motivated we have a SITE WIDE SALE through the end of the giveaway!

This will be the last site wide sale this year so grab them up while you can!!
Sale ends at the same time as giveaway entries: 11/27/2021 11:59PM at Midnight US Central Time.
There is a coupon code: Fall2021 but it will automatically pop up at checkout and you just need to click to apply the discount!

I can’t wait to see everyone’s entries! Go plan, cut, and sew up to enter!!!

Lumberjack Hack- No Exposed Seams Lined with Knit Cuffs

November 4, 2021

Hi- We have a beautiful inside finish to the Lumberjack and just to show you one more way to make the inside just as beautiful as the outside I’m going to show you how to hide the knit cuff seams if you’re lining your Lumberjack. It is simple, but you need to put together your Lumberjack in a bit different order than the tutorial- which is why we have it here on the blog (to keep the tutorial nice and streamline).

You will follow the tutorial for the lined Lumberjack until you get to the Side Seams. Don’t sew those side seams yet!! 😉

Instead, grab your knit cuff pieces. Sew your knit cuff onto your lining fabric wrist. Right sides together, stretching the cuff to fit the wrist. Or gathering your wrist to fit the knit cuff if your cuff doesn’t have enough stretch. Repeat with opposite wrist and knit cuff. Now open up your Lumberjack right sides up all flat, making sure nothing is twisted.

Lay your main piece right sides down on top your lining, matching areas (back to back, fronts to fronts, sleeves on top sleeves). Now align and sew your knit cuffs to the main (they are right sides together), again stretching the knit cuff to fit to the wrist. Make sure you don’t get anything twisted up here.

Now align your side seams down the main and lining of your Lumberjack with right sides together. You’ll stitch from bottom hem of main fabric, up through main armpit, up main sleeve, through knit cuff, down the lining sleeve, down the side of the lining to the bottom of the lining side seam hem. And repeat on the opposite side seam. (This was very difficult to take a picture of LOL).

Here’s the magic part. Put your arm through the main sleeve and grab the knit cuff. Pull knit cuff through main fabric sleeve until the wrist seams of both main and lining are aligned with knit cuff folded in half. TA-DA… doesn’t that always feel so cool?

You can carefully pin seams and top-stitch the seams to keep the lining from shifting around. I recommend taking the time to do this, otherwise you might go crazy trying to keep the knit cuff folded perfectly in half when you take on/off the Lumberjack.

Continue on through the rest of the tutorial as normal. I hope you like this little trick to give you no exposed seams there at the wrists!

Go Team SAL – day 7

November 2, 2021

Good evening, friends! Thank you everyone who joined us last week for the Go Team sew along. I had so much fun making the two jerseys for my kids. I know you are here to find out the winners so without further ado, here they are!

Congratulations, Mel Goulet! She is our first winner. Mel won a $20 gift card from Patterns for Pirates and a $30 gift card from Purple Dragon Fabrics.

Congratulations go to Naomi McGrath as well! Naomi won a gift card from Made for Mermaids valued at $20 and a $30 gift certificate from Purple Dragon Fabrics.

A huge THANK YOU to our sew along sponsor. Make sure you check out Purple Dragon Fabrics on Facebook to keep up to date with their sales and preorders.

November’s sew along will be hosted by the mermaids so keep an eye on the Facebook group! See you back here in 2022!

Go Team SAL – day 1 | cut fabric

Go Team SAL – day 2 | shoulder seams & neckline

Go Team SAL – day 3 | yokes

Go Team SAL – day 4 | sleeves

Go Team SAL – day 5 | side seams & hem bottom

Go Team SAL – day 6 | hem sleeves or add cuffs

Go Team SAL – day 7 | winners announcement

Lumberjack – Reversible Hack

November 1, 2021

It’s here! It’s here! And I don’t mean only the cooler weather! The updated Lumberjack Shacket is here and now it it’s available in V figure (based on men measurements) and Hourglass figure (women’s measurement). Everyone gets a Lumberjack shirt or shacket!

The pattern includes a lined and an unlined option so today on the b log I wanted to show you how to take the lined option and make it fully reversible! Yup, one shirt that can be worn both ways.

Let’s get started! Print and cut the pattern and fabric as instructed in the tutorial. Make sure you use the lined option. For this tutorial I used a nylon, poly blend woven (the solid black) and a custom minky (the green one) for the lining.

NOTE: the hood I used for this hack is 1″ smaller on the front that the final pattern. If you want to achieve this exact look, remove 1″ from the hood pieces as show below. If you use the pattern hood as is, make sure to read below what small adjustments you need to make.

Once all pattern pieces are cut sew the main bodice and add sleeves and pockets as instructed in the tutorial. Repeat with the lining. Set the bodices aside for now. Sew the hood as per the lined tutorial. Place the hood (lining out) right sides together on the lining neckline. The hood will be about 1/2″ shorter than the lining neckline.

Sew the hood in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure to stitch through all 3 layers.

If you use the pattern hood, you will place the lined hood right sides together with the MAIN, not lining. The center back will match the neckline back and the front point will reach the fold line of the inner fold line. Sew it in place. Lay the lining over, right sides together and stitch along the neckline. The hood will be sandwiched between the right sides of the bodices.

Tip: Tie the two sleeves in a knot for both main and lining so they are out of the way when you sew.

Place your main and lining right sides together matching the raw edges of the neckline and bottom. Pin them in place.

The main will be longer, that’s the way it is supposed to be.

Sew along the neckline, the hood will be sandwiched in between the main and lining. Sew the bottom edge too. Seam allowance for these steps is 1/2 inch.

Turn the jacket right side out. We will now top stitch the neckline and bottom hem.

When top stitching, fold the excess fabric down (or up) 1/2″ on the placket part. See picture below for how it will look both at the neckline and bottom hem.

Following the first fold marking, press the front placket once on both sides. Pin in place. I like to add a strip of water soluble double sided tape to the raw edge of the lining. It will help tremendously when sewing.

Note: if you used the bigger hood, it will go all the way to the fold on both sides.

Fold the placket one more time along the second fold line. This will no overlap over the raw edge of the lining, right where the double sided tape is. Press it down with your fingers. If you don’t have any DST handy for this step, you can always pin it in place. Sew the placket down.

I also like to top stitch all around the placket, on all 4 sides. Once you finish these steps (and your jacket looks like the pic below) set it aside.

CUFFS

Let’s work on the cuffs. Press both cuffs, length wise. Open them up and press the top of each cuff 1/2″. Thus will create a memory hem. With the cuffs opened up, sew each at the short end to create a loop.

Refold the top memory hem over the loop.

Place the unfolded raw edge of the cuff on the lining sleeve opening. You will stretch the cuff to fit the opening. Match the sleeve seam with the cuff seam. Sew in place with a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat this step with the other cuff and lining sleeve.

Time to make it look like a shirt! Push the lining sleeve through the main sleeve so they are wrong sides together.

Fold the cuff along the middle crease that we pressed earlier. The edge is still folded 1/2′. Once you bring the cuff over, the sleeve raw edge will be inclosed in the cuff. Pin the edge of the cuff on the sleeve all around.

Stitch the cuff down. Look how beautiful is the cuff with no raw edges on the lining! Take a second to admire your work!

BUTTONS

Sew the button holes on one of the plackets. Let’s add the buttons now! To make this Lumberjack fully reversible I added buttons on both sides of the placket. I hate to say it but the easiest way to do this is to hand 🖐 stitch 🖐 the buttons on both sides simultaneously. Make sure that you don’t pull the thread extremely tight. You need wiggle room for the buttons to be able to be fastened.